Saturday 2 May 2015

Prague

Last weekend I enjoyed a lovely long weekend in the beautiful city of Prague in the Czech Republic. Now, the most famous medieval monument in the city is the Charles Bridge:

BUT, I’m planning to attend a conference in June that will discuss bridges in general and meet the author of a PhD on the bridge (Jana Gajdošová) so I’m going to save a post on that for later. 

In the meantime, I would like to whole heartedly recommend Prague as a city break. Do take your walking shoes as there’s a lot of walking but the food is delicious, the beer is cheap (try the Czech wines too!), and the architecture is superb. 

In lieu of the bridge, I’m going to talk about the fabulous clock that graces the tower in the old town square (N.B. There’s a restaurant called Café U Týna on the other side of the square that serves brilliant schnitzel).

Fourteenth century Prague had become a cultural centre following the reign of Emperor Charles IV and in 1347 its university was founded. This led to an influx of intellectuals and ideas to the Czech Republic and in 1410, this clock was created using the cutting edge science and craftsmanship of the day by Mikuláš of Kadaň and Jan Šindel. 

Now, as you may observe, this is not a normal clock. This is because, it does not tell normal time. 


The ‘clock’s’ dial, is essentially a mechanical astrolabe (an astrological instrument). The ring with Roman numerals tells modern time (no minute hand) and is indicated by the golden hand. 

The ring with Arabic numerals tells Bohemian time, which is/was calculated according to the hours between sunrise and sunset. Very useful back when the working day was determined by available daylight. 

The curved lines cutting across the clock (with the spaces coloured in orange and gradiated blues) mark the unevenness of the daylight throughout the year. The number 24 on the outer ring (the Bohemian one) indicates sunset and moves throughout the year. 


 HOW COOL IS THAT.

So from the photo I took, you can see that it was around 1pm and that sunset was going to happen after 7pm. 

The dial in the centre with the zodiac signs on it tells you the movement of the sun, stars and moon throughout the year and the relevant zodiac sign. 

I’m going to be perfectly honest and say that my maths and astronomy isn’t up for explaining how that part of the clock is used in detail. It was very important when you were trying to forecast fortunes however (this was the cutting edge of science) or calculate calendars for the year ahead.

A fabulous clock I hope you’ll all agree and an interesting object though which to glimpse medieval science. Here’s a poem written on the clock to relax your brains now. 

“The Prague Astronomical Clock”

By Jonathan Fink

Inside, it must resemble a great churning mouth,
the three co-axial wheels, all with nearly 400 cogs.
Ignore the trinkets and pawns, the puppet apostles

that march but on the hour, the tiny skeleton
striking the chimes. They all are additions,
centuries late, to pacify travellers on the Royal Way.

For six hundred years it has marshalled the stars,
the revolutions of the sun and moon, the minuscule
placement of zodiacal signs.

The maker's intent, the chronicles claim, was to "publish" the paths
of celestial bodies and meter the universe to discernible
time. According to legend, he laboured for years,

forging every pin and cog. So when the clock was
first unveiled and the hands moved like conductors'
batons, the city fathers searched out the maker

and carried him to the centre square. At once,
he must have thought it grand -the streets spilling
crowds. Then the politicians closed around him

and the leanest produced a curling blade. The legend
claims their motivation as pride, never wanting another
clock built. And when they were done, each departed

his way, leaving the maker blinded behind. One version
of the story asserts that the maker found his way
to the clock, and throwing the switches only he knew,

swung open the dial and inserted his hand. Like a magician
producing a coin from the dark, he removed the smallest
discernible part. So was a modest reciprocity served:

the clock hands stayed, the ticking stopped. Yet a realist
would decry the story's most obvious flaw, that after
6oo years the clock still works, the sun and moon pass

on the painted sky. More likely than the fable's neat turn
is that the maker crawled his way back to his home,
or died at once in the square from the blade. In truth,

he was probably never blinded at all, going on
to celebrity, honour and gain. With due respect
to the unknowable past, only the justice of legend

remains. So hail to the clock, precision's grand shrine,
and hail to its lies, the peddlers of fame. After 6oo years
they both persist, a feat, in itself, deserving of praise.


Notes

Clock diagram:

Fink, J. “The Prague Astronomical Clock”, Poetry, vol. 182, No. 5 (Aug., 2003), pp. 252-253

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